The Anglican Rochester Cathedral,
Kent, England.
Photo: 6 December 2009.
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Rochester Cathedral (The Cathedral Church of Christ and The Blessed Virgin Mary), is an Anglican Church of Norman Architecture in Rochester, Kent.
The Church is the Cathedral of The Diocese of Rochester, in The Church of England, and The Seat (“Cathedra”) of The Bishop of Rochester, the second-oldest Bishopric in England after that of The Archbishop of Canterbury. The edifice is a Grade I-Listed Building (number 1086423).[1][2]
The Rochester Diocese was Founded by Saint Justus, one of the Missionaries who accompanied Augustine of Canterbury to convert the pagan Southern English to Christianity in the Early-7th-Century A.D.
A Visit To Rochester, Kent.
Available on YouTube at
[For many years, the reason why the Number 3 Bell, in the Tower of Rochester Cathedral, bears the inscription "U.S.S. Pittsburgh in Memory of 1920" was a mystery.[j] However, a Letter from James W. Todd, Officer Commanding U.S.S. Pittsburgh, was published in The Chatham News on 17 December 1920. In it, he thanks The Dean of Rochester for various events during the two and a half months that the U.S.S. Pittsburgh was in Dry-Dock at Chatham [near Rochester]. He enclosed a cheque for £52 10s to pay for the re-casting of the Bell and discussed the inscription on the Bell.[83]]
The original Cathedral was 42 feet (13 m) high and 28 feet (8.5 m) wide. The Apse is marked in the current Cathedral on the floor, and “Setts [Editor: “Setts” are rectangular quarried stones used in paving] outside the current Cathedral show the line of the previous Cathedral's walls.
Credit for the construction of the building goes to King Æthelberht, rather than Saint Justus. Saint Bede describes Saint Paulinus' burial as "in the Sanctuary of The Blessed Apostle Andrew, which Æthelberht Founded, likewise he built the City of Rochester."[c][7]
King Æthelberht died in 617 A.D., and his successor, Eadbald of Kent, was not a Christian. Saint Justus fled to Francia [Editor: Modern-day France] and remained there for a year before he was recalled by the King.[8]
The Cathedral suffered much from the ravaging of Kent by King Æthelred of Mercia in 676 A.D. So great was the damage, that Bishop Putta retired from the Diocese and his appointed successor, Cwichelm, gave up The See “because of its poverty”.[10]
In 762 A.D., the local Overlord, Sigerd, granted land to the Bishop, as did his successor Egbert.[e][11] The Charter is notable as it is confirmed by Offa of Mercia as Overlord of the local Kingdom.
The building itself was ancient and decayed. During the Episcopate of Siward (1058–1075), it was Served by four or five Canons “living in squalor and poverty”.[12] One of the Canons became Vicar of Chatham and raised sufficient money to make a gift to the Cathedral for the Soul and burial of his wife, Godgifu.[13]
Gundulf's Church.
Lanfranc, Archbishop of Canterbury, brought Odo to account at The Trial of Penenden Heath (circa 1072). Following Odo's final fall, Gundulf was appointed as the first Norman Bishop of Rochester in 1077. The Cathedral and its lands were restored to the Bishop of Rochester.
Gundulf's first undertaking in the construction of the new Cathedral seems to have been the construction of The Tower, which today bears his name. In about 1080, he began construction of a new Cathedral to replace Saint Justus’s Church. He was a talented Architect who probably played a major part in the design of the works he commissioned.
Lanfranc, Archbishop of Canterbury, brought Odo to account at The Trial of Penenden Heath (circa 1072). Following Odo's final fall, Gundulf was appointed as the first Norman Bishop of Rochester in 1077. The Cathedral and its lands were restored to the Bishop of Rochester.
Gundulf's first undertaking in the construction of the new Cathedral seems to have been the construction of The Tower, which today bears his name. In about 1080, he began construction of a new Cathedral to replace Saint Justus’s Church. He was a talented Architect who probably played a major part in the design of the works he commissioned.
The Transepts were 120 feet long, but only 14 feet wide. With such narrow Transepts, it is thought that the Eastern Arches of the Nave abutted the Quire Arch.[14] To The South, another Tower (of which nothing visible remains) was built.
There was no Crossing Tower.[15] The Nave was not completed at first. Apparently designed to be nine Bays long, most on The South Side, but only five Bays to The North were completed by Gundulf.
The Quire was required by The Priory and The South Wall formed part of its buildings. It has been speculated that Gundulf simply left the Citizens to complete the Parochial part of the building.[16] Gundulf did not stop with the fabric, he also replaced the Secular Chaplains with Benedictine Monks, obtained several Royal Grants of Land and proved a great benefactor to his Cathedral City.
During the Episcopates of Ernulf (1115–1124) and John I (1125–1137), the Cathedral was completed. The Quire was re-arranged, the Nave partly rebuilt, Gundulf's Nave Piers were Cased, and The West End built.
Ernulf is also credited with building the Refectory, Dormitory and Chapter House, only portions of which remain. Finally, John I Translated the body of Bishop Ithamar from the old Saxon Cathedral to the new Norman Cathedral, the whole being Dedicated in 1130 (or possibly 1133) by The Archbishop of Canterbury, assisted by thirteen Bishops, in the presence of King Henry I, but the occasion was marred by a great fire which nearly destroyed the whole City and damaged the new Cathedral.
Mediæval Remodelling.
Probably from about 1190, Gilbert de Glanville (Bishop 1185–1214) commenced the rebuilding of The East End and the replacement of the Monastic buildings. The North Quire Transept may have been sufficiently advanced to allow the burial of Saint William of Perth in 1201, alternatively, the Coffin may have lain in The North Quire Aisle until The Transept was ready.
The Cathedral was then looted in 1215 by the forces of King John during The Siege of Rochester Castle. Edmund de Hadenham recounts that there was not a Pyx left “in which The Body of The Lord might rest upon the Altar”.[14]
However, by 1227, the Quire was again in use when the Monks made their Solemn Entry into it. The Cathedral was Re-Dedicated in 1240 by Bishop Richard Wendene (also known as Richard de Wendover), who had been Translated from Bangor.[14][18]
Unlike the Abbeys of the period (which were led by an Abbot), the Monastic Cathedrals were Priories, ruled over by a Prior, with further support from the Bishop.[19] Rochester and Carlisle (the other impoverished See) were unusual in securing the promotion of a number of Monks to be Bishop.
Seven Bishops of Rochester were originally Regular Monks between 1215 and The Dissolution of The Monasteries (1538).[20] A consequence of the Monastic attachment was a lack of patronage at the Bishop's disposal. By the Early-16th-Century, only four per cent of the Bishop's patronage came from non-Parochial sources.[21] The Bishop was, therefore, chronically limited in funds to spend on the non-Monastic part of the Cathedral.
The next phase of the development was begun by Richard de Eastgate, The Sacrist. The two Eastern Bays of the Nave were cleared, and the four large Piers, to support The Tower, were built. The North Nave Transept was then constructed. The work was nearly completed by Thomas de Mepeham, who became The Sacrist in 1255. Not long afterwards, The South Transept was completed and the two Bays of the Nave nearest The Crossing rebuilt to their current form. The intention seems to have been to rebuild the whole Nave, but probably lack of funds saved the Late-Norman work.
A year later, Simon de Montfort fell at The Battle of Evesham to the forces of King Henry III, led by Henry's son, the future King Edward I. Later, in 1300, King Edward I passed through Rochester on his way to Canterbury and is recorded as having given Seven Shillings (35 Pence) at The Shrine of Saint William of Perth, and the same amount the following day. During his return, he again visited the Cathedral and gave a further Seven Shillings at each of The Shrines of Saint Paulinus and Saint Ithamar.
The new Century saw the completion of the new Decorated Work with the original Norman Architecture. The rebuilding of the Nave being finally abandoned. Around 1320, The South Transept was altered to accommodate the Altar of The Virgin Mary.
There appears to have been a Rood Screen thrown between the two Western Piers of The Crossing. A Rood Loft may have surmounted it.[23] Against this Rood Screen, was placed the Altar of Saint Nicholas, the Parochial Altar of the City.
The Priory, itself, was walled off from the City at this period. An Oratory was established in “Angulo Navis” (“in the corner of the Nave”) for The Reserved Sacrament; it is not clear which corner was being referred to, but Dr Palmer[25] argues that the Buttress against The North-West Tower Pier is the most likely setting.
He notes the Arch filled in with rubble on the Aisle Side; and, on the Nave Side, there is a Scar Line, with lower quality Stonework below. The Buttress is about 4 feet (1.2 m) thick, enough for an Oratory. Palmer notes that provision for The Reservation of Consecrated Hosts was often made to The North of the Altar, which would be the case here.
The Central Tower was at last raised by Hamo de Hythe in 1343, thus essentially completing the Cathedral. Bells were placed in The Central Tower (see Bells Section, below). The Chapter Room Doorway was constructed at around this time. The Black Death struck England in 1347–1349. From then on, there were probably considerably more than twenty Monks in The Priory. [26]
The Oratory, provided for the Citizens of Rochester, did not settle the differences between the Monks and the City. The eventual solution was the construction of Saint Nicholas' Church by The North Side of the Cathedral. A doorway was knocked through the Western End of The North Aisle (since walled up) to allow Processions to pass along The North Aisle of the Cathedral before leaving by The Great West Door.[27][28]
In the Mid-15th-Century, the Clerestory and Vaulting of The North Quire Aisle was completed and new Perpendicular Period Windows inserted into the Nave Aisles. Possible preparatory work for this is indicated in 1410–1411 by The Bridge Wardens of Rochester, who recorded a gift of Lead from The Lord Prior.
The Lead was sold on for forty-one Shillings [Editor: Approximately £1,700, today].[g][29] In 1470, The Great West Window at the Cathedral was completed and finally, around 1490, what is now The Lady Chapel was built.[27]
In 1504, Saint John Fisher was appointed Bishop of Rochester. Although Rochester was by then an impoverished See, Fisher elected to remain as Bishop for the remainder of his life. He had been tutor to the young Prince Henry and, on the Prince's accession as King Henry VIII, Fisher remained his staunch supporter and mentor. He figured in the anti-Lutheran policies of Henry right up until The Divorce Issue and the split from Rome in the Early-1530s.
Fisher remained true to Rome and, for his defence of the Pope, was elevated to a Cardinal in May 1535. Henry was angered by these moves and, on 22 June 1535, Cardinal Fisher was beheaded on Tower Green.
Modern Foundation.
Henrician Settlement.
The Post-Dissolution Foundation was a Dean, six Prebendaries, six Minor Canons, a Deacon, a Sub-Deacon, six Lay Clerks, a Master of the Choristers, eight Choristers, an Upper-Master and an Under-Master of the Grammar School, twenty Scholars, six Poor Men, a Porter (who was also to be a Barber), a Butler, Chief Cook and Assistant Cook.
Four Scholars (two each at Oxford and Cambridge Universities) were supported. The Deacon and Sub-Deacon disappeared during The English Reformation, the Butler and Cooks went when there was no longer a Common Board.[32]
In 1550, he was Translated to The Diocese of London; three years later, Ridley was involved in the plot to place Lady Jane Grey on the throne in preference to the Roman Catholic Queen Mary. The plot failed and Ridley paid the price; he was Burnt at The Stake for Treason on 16 October 1555.
The Cathedral suffered a steep decline after The Dissolution of The Monasteries in the 16th-Century, during which time its estates were confiscated by The Crown, and it became dilapidated and fell into disrepute. Samuel Pepys, the Diarist, would later dismiss it as a "shabby place".[33]
Rochester's location beside Watling Street did, however, mean that there continued to be a string of notable visitors. Most famously, Queen Elizabeth I stayed in Rochester for four days in 1573, attending Divine Service in the Cathedral on 19 September 1573.
William Laud, Archbishop of Canterbury, visited the Cathedral in 1633 and complained about its general state, in particular that it “suffered much for want of glass in the windows”.[34] By the following year, the defects had been mainly remedied (apart from some of the glass), the excuse being that the backlog had built up due to money (£1,000) being spent on “making of the Organs”.[34] Laud accepted this and required completion, noting among other items that the Bells and their frame needed to be put into good order (see below, in 1635 one Bell was re-cast).[35]
In 1635, the Cathedral was described as: “small and plaine, yet it is very lightsome and pleasant: her [the Cathedral's] Quire is neatly adorn’d with many small Pillars of Marble; her Organs, though small, yet are they rich and neat; her Quiristers, though but few, yet orderly and decent”. The author then describes the various monuments “divers others also of antiquity, so dismembred, defac’d and abused”.[36] The reference to the monuments is particularly relevant, for this was six years before the despoliation of the Cathedral by Parliamentarian Soldiers in the wake of The English Civil War.
In 1641, John Evelyn paid his first visit to the Cathedral, as recorded in his Diary: “The 19th we rod to Rochester, and having seene the Cathedrall”.[37]
Post-Restoration, the relative lack of damage was noted, in particular the “monuments of the dead” were not defaced, although one John Wyld (a Freeman and Shoemaker of Rochester) was accused of taking down and selling Iron and Brass from some tombs. Thomas Fairfax's Troops stabled their horses in the Quire, as in other Cathedrals. Although no structural damage seems to have occurred, several Pits were dug in the Nave floor.[39]
Shortly after The Restoration, Samuel Pepys visited Rochester Cathedral on his way between London and Chatham Dockyard. The Cathedral had fallen into disrepair during The Commonwealth and Pepys observed it was “now fitting for use, and the Organ then a-tuning”.[40] By 1662, £8,000 had been spent and a further £5,000 for repairs were outstanding.
The Joint Diocesan Registrar to the Bishops from 1629 until 1671 was Peter Stowell. Under The Commonwealth, his loyalty had cost him both fines and his liberty. He spent his own money re-covering various books and fittings, as well as spending £100 on Flooring the Church from The Great West Door to the Pulpitum.[41]
In 1770, Archdeacon John Warner oversaw the removal of Seats from the Chancels, with Communion Tables set up and Railed “as formerly”, a notably early re-adoption of the Railed Altar.[44]
The Cathedral fabric required continuous care: In 1664, The South Aisle was re-cased and, in 1670, forty feet of The North Aisle had to be rebuilt.[41] In 1679, the Spire was in a dangerous state and an Architect, Samuel Guy, reported on it. He reported that £1,000 of work was needed; however, a few months later, a Westminster Carpenter, Henry Fry, took a different view; some Lead work and the repair of one Beam was sufficient. £160 was spent on the Organ.
In 1705, work started to re-Lead the Roof, completed by 1724. In 1730, the old Ringers’ Loft above the Quire Steps was removed and The Crossing was Vaulted. Between 1742 and 1743, major work was undertaken in the Quire, sufficiently disruptive that the Dean and Chapter used nearby Saint Nicholas’ Church. In 1749, the Steeple had to be rebuilt and, between 1765 and 1772, the West Front Towers were rebuilt.[45]
19th-Century Onwards.
From 1825 to 1830, Lewis Nockalls Cottingham served as Diocesan Architect. The Quire and its South Transept were re-Roofed, due to dry rot. The Wall between the main Transept and The South Quire Aisle was still leaning, and the previous Century's work had actually worsened the situation.
Cottingham built a new External Face which effectively Buttressesd the original Wall. The Tower was demolished and rebuilt without a Spire. The East End was remodelled by lowering the Altar and removing the old Altar Screen. Various Windows and Arches were opened up and, in one of them, the tomb of John de Sheppey was discovered.[47]
Cottingham remained in charge for the next phase of restoration. From 1840, the Pulpit and Bishop’s Throne were rebuilt. The removal of the old Pulpit revealed the Mediæval Wheel of Life painting to be seen at The Eastern End of the Choir Stalls, today. It is said to be the oldest such painting in England.[48] A new Ceiling of The Crossing, new Canopy for John de Sheppey’s tomb, cleaning of the whitewash, and the renovation of the Crypt, all occurred at this time.[49]
The North Transept had new Western Windows and a new Door. Both had the Masonry renovated. The Gables and Roofs were restored to their old High Pitch Form, based on prints. The Organ Screen was restored to its original Plain Form, perhaps a mistake, since there was now no Screen on the other side of the Pulpitum as there had been in the days of Saint Nicholas’ Altar.
The East End Gables were raised, but, due to lack of funds, the Roof has still not been raised to match. The East Window (“ugly” according to Palmer) was replaced with the present Lancet Windows. The floor of the Presbytery was lowered and the whole Eastern part of the building re-floored. The Choir and Prebends’ Stalls were renovated, using original material where possible. The work uncovered the original Lion (Leopard) and Fleur-de-Lis Heraldic Artwork on which Scott based his decoration of the Quire.[50]
In memory of Robert Scott (sometime Dean), the Quire Screen was decorated with the current statues by J. Loughborough Pearson. Pearson also superintended the 1888 restoration of The Great West Front, parts of the facing of which were separating from the core. The Flanking Towers were restored to the original height and form and The North Gable Turret rendered, as a copy of its partner to The South. During this work, the ancient Foundations of the original Church were uncovered and marked out, as noted above.[51]
For the 1400th Anniversary of the Cathedral, in 2004, a new Fresco was painted by Russian icon-painter Sergei Fyodorov in The North Transept.
The Great West Front is dominated by the central Perpendicular Great West Window. Above the Window, the Dripstone terminates in a small Carved Head at each side. The line of the Nave Roof is delineated by a String Course, above which rises the Crenelated Parapet. Below the Window, is a Blind Arcade, interrupted by the top of The Great West Door. Some of the Niches in the Arcade are filled with Statuary.
Below the Arcade, the Door is flanked with Norman recesses. The Door is of Norman work with concentric patterned Arches. The semi-circular Tympanum depicts Christ, sitting in glory, in the centre, with Saint Justus and Saint Ethelbert flanking Him on either side of the Doorway.
Either side of the Nave End, rises a Tower, which forms the junction of The Front and the Nave Walls. The Towers are decorated with Blind Arcading and are carried up two Storeys above the Roof and surmounted with Pyramidal Spires. The Aisle Ends are Norman. Each has a large Round-Headed Arch containing a Window and, in The Northern Recess, is a small Door. Above each Arch is a Plain Wall surmounted by a Blind Arcade, String Course at the Roof Line, and Plain Parapet. The Flanking Towers are Norman in the lower part, with the Style being maintained in the later work. Above the Plain Bases, there are four Storeys of Blind Arcading topped with an Octagonal Spire.[55]
The outside of the Nave and its Aisles is undistinguished, apart from the walled-up North-West Door which allowed access from the Cathedral to the adjacent Saint Nicholas Church.[28] The North Transept is reached from The High Street via Black Boy Alley, a Mediæval Pilgrimage route. The decoration is Early-English, but re-worked by Gilbert Scott.
Gilbert Scott rebuilt the Gable Ends to the original High Pitch from the Lower Pitch adopted at the start of the 19th-Century. The Gable is set back from the Main Wall, behind a Parapet with a Walkway. He also restored the Pilgrim Entrance and opened up the Blind Arcade in The Northern End of The West Wall.[56]
The North Quire Transept and East End are all executed in The Early-English Style, the lower Windows light the Crypt, which is earlier. Adjoining The East End of the Cathedral is The East End of the Chapter Room which is also in The Early-English Style. The exact form of The East End is more modern than it appears, being largely due to the work of Gilbert Scott in the 19th-Century. Scott raised the Gable Ends to the original High Pitch, but, for lack of funds, the Roofs have not been raised; writing in 1897, Palmer noted: “They still require Roofs of corresponding Pitch, a need both great and conspicuous”.[57]
On the South Side of the Cathedral, the Nave reaches The Main Transept, and, beyond, a modern Porch. The Aisle between The Transepts is, itself, a buttress to the older Wall behind and supported by a Flying Buttress. The unusual position of this Wall is best explained when considering the interior, below. The Southern Wall of the Presbytery is hidden by the Chapter Room, an 18th-century structure.
Cloisters and ancillary buildings.
The Cloister was at the heart of the Monastery and its outlines can be followed in the Cloister Garth. The Eastern part was formed by Bishop Ernulf's Chapter House and Dormitory, of which now only the Western Wall survives.[58]
The Cloister was at the heart of the Monastery and its outlines can be followed in the Cloister Garth. The Eastern part was formed by Bishop Ernulf's Chapter House and Dormitory, of which now only the Western Wall survives.[58]
South of the Cloister was the Refectory, the work of Prior Helias (also known as Élie) in about 1215. The lower part of the Wall remains and is of massive construction. There was a problem to be solved, the older Cloister was bounded by the Roman City Wall. Helias simply drove through it a Doorway and used the Wall as the North Wall of the Refectory.[59]
Another Amazing History (Capitalizations needed) by Zephyrinus the Venerable. Here are some summary dates (leaving out many other incidents and setbacks in Rochester Cathedral's turbulent history:
ReplyDelete1080 AD - Gundulf builds a "new church."
1137, 1179 AD - fires damage the Cathedral.
1190 AD - Rebuilding. & ca. 1255 AD The Tower and 4 piers are added.
1264 AD - The Cathedral is ravaged by the army of Simon de Montfort.
1535 AD - St John Fisher, Rochester's bishop, is beheaded
1547 AD - Bp Ridley (aptly named) rids the church of Romish altars, puts in "the Lord's Board", substitutes "historically accurate" (tongue-in-cheek comment) "tables of the Lord."
1555 AD - Bp Ridley now on the outs, burnt at the stake. Sic transit gloria reformer
1641 AD - The Parlimentarian Army "despoliates" the Cathedral in an evident fit of satisfying righteous holy anger at superstitious chanting and worshipping.
My what a history: and somehow the Cathedral survived the fits and "rid-iculous" episodes of Man. That is always amazing.
Capital. Thank You.
DeleteBy the way, this Cathedral, notwithstanding the Ghosts of the Parlimentarians and their hatred of organs, now has an outstanding 1989 Noel Mander LTD pipe organ, speaking in its brilliant and bright acoustic, Here is artist Jeremy Lloyd in a brilliant performance of the late Belgian Master, Flor Peeter's "Toccata, Fugue & Hymne, Ave Maris Stella."
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HkDZt4-Udo
Excellent. Thank You for the Link.
DeletePardon: “Anonymous” comments = by Dante P (Still getting used to the Fine “Blogger” commenting format..)
ReplyDelete